Bee Keeping Frequently Asked Questions 10 Beginning With Honey Bees

okay so thank you for joining me those
were from pretty cool slow motion sequences that I took of the
bees coming into my Tiger colony and that was shot just half an hour ago
right in my apiary what it doesn’t show very well is that we have really high
wind conditions right now but it is 50 degrees so we have intermittent rain
coming and going so it’s actually not a terrible day the bees are all flying
around they’re foraging and they’re finding pollen in the environment so
that’s fantastic today is Saturday March the 30th and this is beekeeping
frequently asked questions number 10 so I was gonna wait until next week to put
this up but I changed my mind I just decided you know I put that feeder Shim
video up yesterday for those that wanted to know how to make their own and then I
decided why make everyone wait we can get this information out now and since
the weather’s kind of rough still and we’re going right back down to the 30s
tomorrow so even though it’s spring we can’t always get out there and that’s
why feeding is so important and we’re covering that today too so if you want
to know what questions are gonna be answered in this video today look down
in the video description and I’m going to line item of each one and let you know
we’re going to talk about so if there’s nothing of interest you won’t be wasting
your time and if you’re not a new beekeeper this may be boring to you we
are geared towards backyard beekeepers that keep from 1 to 10 hives and just
hopefully some helpful information when you’re not a commercial beekeeper you
can afford to do things differently you can be as fancy as you want because the
investment is over just a few hives – 10 and it’s not gonna it’s not gonna break
the bank if you do a few extra fancy things to help your bees along so that’s
the target group for these discussions so I want to draw your attention to this
is the April edition of bee culture magazine and the reason I want to talk
about this is I get a question there’s a really good article in here I get a
question all the time why don’t we just take our bee hives and stick them inside
buildings and heat and ventilate the building for the harsh winter and then
they all survive and then we bring them outside and place them back out in the
apiary well there’s a kind of a sad article in here really from a commercial
beekeeper up in Michigan in the States one of the most northern areas
and he took the time and trouble to put all of his hives inside a big
climate-controlled insulated building and spent all that money on the
electricity and the gas and everything it took to keep that place controlled
and warm and sustained for the winter and all of his hives looked good going through
and as it got into midwinter they started to die off and eventually he
suffered a 100% loss of his bees we’ve kind of talked about this in the past
where you know just imagine the devastation of losing livestock like
that so this individual he says he’s gone from being a commercial beekeeper
to now a hobby beekeeper just because he is unable to sustain his hives in that
environment so for those who want some interesting reading this month look up
bee culture I’ll put a link to this down in the video description and you can
check that magazine out for yourself it is the magazine of American beekeeping
but I think there’s a lot of great advice for people all around the world
so it’s not just the United States he also attributes most of his losses by
the way to varroa destructor so the varroa parasite apparently got out of
hand and just wiped out all of his colonies eventually so the follow-on
aspect of what he plans to do this year is that he’s going to do a lot of varroa
treatment we started this year I use varroa resistant hygienic bee line always
have and if you’ve been watching my frequently asked question series this
year I’m going to be using oxalic vaporization and we’re going to do our
very first of three treatments this weekend maybe even this afternoon if the
wind will just die down so I might do it late afternoon while all the bees are
inside we want maximum exposure we know that the bees have broken cluster and
obviously they’re foraging and they’re bringing in resources and we’re not in a
nectar flow yet this is prime time to get at those varroa and we’re gonna try
to count them too so I want to see how many I get out of that it’s gonna be an
interesting experiment but my personal preference if I’m going to treat for
varroa period and remember I already have the advantage of bees that survive
winter on their own they were not treated last year the year before and so
on so these are bees that make it through every winter on their own and so
we already have great stock and I think we’re gonna give them a leg up with
oxalic vapor and this goes against what a lot of people who are purists when it
comes to the bees I just you know I see the numbers drop off and varroa are
present in all the beehives the question is whether or not the bees cope with
them how well they get rid of them on their own now we’re gonna help them out
this year I’m gonna see if that really boosts my numbers I’m gonna share that
with you oxalic vapor treatments what I’m doing
and we’re gonna do three so if I do it Saturday today then I will do it next
Saturday and the following Saturday because we will cover all cycles because
they are rearing brood right now so there is capped brood in there so we
have to make sure that we get everything eventually exposed through each
subsequent cycle and the biggest die offs with the varroa are supposed to be
in the second cycle most people notice it’s not an immediate thing it’s not
like you’re gonna treat with the oxalic vapor and then you know an hour later
bullet ray and count the varroa now that’s the other cool part too is if you
want to look forward to what I’m gonna do in future presentations on YouTube I
really want to show the varroa up-close I found one small hive beetle just one
so I’d like to get close-ups of those while they’re still alive hopefully and
I also have methods for trapping their little feet the other thing that’s going
to be coming up will be I’m gonna do pyrography to personalize another bee
box that I just got so I’m going to show you how to do that so that’s if you
don’t know pyrography is just wood-burning on that front of your hive
you know even if it looks terrible you know you can you can just personalize
the boxes and it’s fun to do to decorate them of course the best protection for
any of your bee boxes bee hives is exterior glossy household paint second
down from that you know people use tung oil that has to be refreshed every year
and I use helmsman’s by Minwax it’s an exterior varnish and that is kind of doing okay but it does
show some moldy areas and on some of the rooftops in particular on some of the
flow hives which are made of cedar or hoop pine they have started to peel up
and I did three days worth of finishes on those so I’m not super excited about
the Minwax treatments so I have to kind of rethink when I’m gonna put my
exteriors on some to protect the wood ware some people have recommended also
that you do a hot paraffin dip I’m not prepared to do that
but I may rethink the painting but coming up I’m gonna do pyrography so if
you want to see how I do that kind of artwork burning the wood that’s kind of
interesting so we’re gonna get right into the first question here which is
from Adam what’s my opinion as the warre hives okay here’s the thing when it
comes to be Ives of different designs and different practices when it comes to
beekeeping unless I’ve done it myself I really don’t have a solid opinion about
it and of course like everyone else and like your might be doing right now I
look at YouTube to see what’s going on and I’ve looked at the warre hives and
I’ve noticed that there’s a method they have the boxes or different dimensions
so they don’t take the standard frames of the Langstroth boxes and so on so
we’re in the specialized equipment and I’ve noticed that most of those warre
hive beekeepers are not using frames at all they’re just letting the comb
develop naturally and it’s suspended you know from the top of the box so that’s
kind of a problem so what I want to know is does that even meet the requirements
of my state so if the state inspector says I have to have frames and then I
have to pull it and be inspected because that’s what’s defined in when you’re
keeping bees it’s why we can’t just take a cut hollow log and let our bees build
up and then manage that as some kind of colony everything has to be accessible
and inspectable so if I had a warre hive the top the way they take off honey
is they pull the whole top off and they scrape off all the comb and they crush
and drain the honey from the comb so they’re really pulling out 100% of the
wax and a hundred percent of the foundation and everything else so right
now my plates kind of full when it comes to the type of hives I’m going to
experiment with and evaluate I’m still evaluating flow hives I’m not even
interested yet in the apimaye hives again for
reasons I’ve discussed before so I’m using Langstroth and flow hives right
now I don’t have personal experience with the apimaye hive but I would
April might but the wari hives I would like to know more about from the
inspector end of it what if you had a warre hive and a state inspector showed
up and needed to look into all your hives so you know they don’t just look
at one or two hives he looks at every single hive it pulls all the frames so
when they do that you have to be ready to harvest honey then because there’s no
way to inspect that comb so for right now and then someone else said well then
get a warre hive but put frames in it well now we’re kind of back in the
territory of you know an eight frame or a ten frame Langstroth hive so for right
now my opinion is that I don’t personally need it because what I’m
doing right now is not broken so and it’s convenient everything that I’m
doing right now suits me personally very well so the warre hives my opinion
is it’s I don’t have one just because they haven’t used them and I don’t know
what the regulations are in my state your state may allow it I mean I don’t
know where the people are that are running them I did do a quick youtube
search on it and I saw someone cutting all the comb out of the top to show how
it gets harvested cutting all the comb out for harvest is not something I
personally want to do because where I live
northeastern United States it gets cold and I need the bees to have drawn comb
and resources if I did that at the end normal honey season when we’re drawing
off is usually in the month of September here so and then that leaves October
November for them to finish out capping off their resources and then they get
through winter hopefully I couldn’t really at that time of year be cutting
away all their comb and then of course the way the based on what I understand
to warre hive you’re adding the new boxes underneath and they’re just
extending down as they go so you take off the top and everything kind of moves
up so just personally it’s not of interest to me right now but thank you
for bringing it up and again I don’t have a solid opinion because I don’t
have personal experience with it but I’m waiting for feedback and I’ll let you
know if that’s aloud in my state based on inspection
requirements then I can’t do it anyway the number two question was from Marek
and it was feeder shim dimensions and plans so I already answered that
yesterday because i decided I just dedicated a whole video to it and made a
feeder shim with the integrated bottom board so it’s my own design but it’s
just a very basic thing and has a feeder hole in it and allows you to feed dry
liquid you can put pollen patties underneath of it check out that video
I’ll put that in the video description here so that you can watch that if
you’re interested in feeder shims because this time of year this is when
you need to have that on in fact through winter good feeder shim with an
integrated bottom board like the one I showed yesterday allows you to open a
hive without exposing your bees to cold and you can replenish their resources if
they’re using them again even on a cold rainy terrible day like today for
example but you know we’re back in the 30s tomorrow I can still open the top
and see what the feeder situation is because I’m not exposing that cluster to
the cold elements and so it’s pretty cool check that out and thank you for
that question Marek by the way now we’re all the way down to Erin what are your
thoughts on using steam to melt wax and sanitize the box and equipment all at
once you know what I never even thought about using steam before and he also
sent me a link to a gentleman that was doing that he was not in the United
States he created a pressure vessel that looked
like one of those old-fashioned water heaters and he had tubes coming off of
it and he had a valve and he had a flexible tube with a rigid piece that
he’s stuck into the hive and what he was doing is stacking like five six seven
boxes at once full of frames with honeycomb on him and he was running
heated steam into there and then he was opening the bottom and it was pouring
out buckets of wax so I’ve never seen anything like that in fact Erin if you
would please if you’re watching this go ahead and put that link to that video
right into the comm section under this video and I’m going
to click that and we’ll highlight that one so people can check that out it’s
something I never personally thought about again this guy is obviously
keeping a lot of hives and he had buckets of wax around we are going to do you
know solar wax melter coming up I wanted to do that last weekend and what
happened we had freezing weather and no sunshine so we couldn’t do it so that’s
still coming up as far as demonstrations I’m gonna do but using steam to sanitize
a hive I don’t know anybody who does it I have one of those Wagner steamers and
I use it to clean things up but as far as its ability to raise the temperature
enough that Wagner steamer introduces moisture but the way this other video
was set up when he had that pressure vessel and he had the little coil tube
coming off of it everything looks like a distillery almost he he probably had
superheated steam because a temperature was really hot and that was working in
real time it was working really fast so I can see that that might be a really
cool advantage so if someone personally uses the steam or has some kind of
custom rig we’re kind of in dangerous territory if you make a pressure vessel
like that and you’ve got a valve on it and you don’t have some kind of pressure
relief valve built onto it you could overheat that you can actually explode
one of those things there’s a reason why we have the pressure reliefs on
hot-water heaters in houses because back in the old days before they put those
pressure reliefs on they actually exploded and launched through walls and
floors and things like that so when you’re dealing with steam and a big fire
like like the way that’s shown in this video that Aaron shared it’s potentially
dangerous so I can’t recommend it but I can ask you to share your thoughts and
experiences with using steam I mean it’s it’s just using superheated air so I
think it’s a great idea if it can be done safely and and because when it
melts all that wax inside it’s gonna melt the wax and the propolis and
everything else so I see that it’s kind of cool because the whole interior of
these hive boxes will now have a sealing of wax and propolis so that’s that’s
pretty cool and get ready for the next season
I like it I just don’t have any experience but my opinion is that it’s
very interesting and worth looking into more so if you’re watching this look
for Aaron’s link down in the in the comments section
after losing hives packages and nuke coming in and no sign of disease okay so
they have packages in a nucleus coming in okay so no signs of disease just
reuse the equipment I see I see no problem with that I use my own equipment
over and over and like if you’re going to do splits or install a package I
don’t personally do any sanitizing what I do is store all my equipment in a shed
that’s unheated and it goes through winter and of course it’s supposed to
sub-zero temperatures and as far as taking care of bacteria and things like
that I personally don’t have any sanitization methods but it will say
that if you have package of bees coming in or if you’ve got a fresh new coming
in the package bees are completely exposed so here’s an opportunity for you
to when you receive that put the package bees in the hive that you’re going to
put your entire new colony in keep the Queen out for a moment close it all up
and do an oxalic acid vaporization treatment of those package piece right away
because now you’re going to take care of any varroa that they may have brought
with them and then you can reintroduce that Queen inner cage and finish the
install so I recommend it is a great time when things are brand new and
you’re bringing it in a package now with the nuke it’s more complicated because
you have capped brood so you’ve got capped brood and a mated Queen that’s
already loose in there so she’s not in a cage so you can’t protect her so if I
had a new nuc coming in I would put that in completely new equipment I
wouldn’t try to reuse equipment if you have it if you’re new beekeeper most
your equipments new anyway try not to take a hand-me-down equipment or when
somebody’s getting out of beekeeping all their bees died through the winter
you’re gonna see a lot of that this time of year where people are like well all
my bees died I’ve tried for three years and I just want to get out of the
business so they’re gonna sell all their stuff super cheap so it can be very
appealing to get entire you know beehive boxes and
things like that and I think it’s a bargain but you’re also not fully aware
of what might be coming bacteria wise and even potential diseases that can carry
in there if we’re talking foul brood and nosema and things like that they have a
pretty long shelf life when it comes to how long they can reside inside the
material of a hive so you’re going to want to either extreme heat or extreme
cold you’re gonna have to be careful about what you’re putting that in but if
these are your own and you already know your own equipment and you know for sure
you have no signs of disease the only ones I would treat would be the package
bees I would put the nuc right in and get them started right away without
delay with the package and I would treat the package that’s what I would do
myself and then keep the Queen out and put her in after you do the treatment
there’s no reason to stress her with that and then hopefully three days later
that Queen gets out of her cage and your package is good to go and you know that
if they came with varroa you take care of all of them because they’re exposed
at that point later once they draw it comb and they’re laying eggs so once the
pupae get capped they’re inaccessible to the oxalic acid treatment so
that’s my recommendation there I’ll put them right in number four what is the
best thing to feed bees in spring and the best way to give it to them landing
board okay here’s the thing now this is really cool because the weather is
finally broken it’s not frozen you know we the bees can get out and do cleansing
flights so you can start with liquid feeds now so one to one sugar water and
or two to one if you really want to enrich that but you get your safely
going with one to one this time of year because the bees can fly out and it’s
not going to freeze the other thing is rapid round feeders in the top just like
I showed yesterday when I did the demo about the feeding sham I also explained
that these things are good for dry feed you don’t have to worry about dry food
right now the only thing that would be dry feed if you wanted to give them
would be the pollen substitute that’s put out by mann lake
I think it’s called ultra Bee whatever their top rated one is they have ultra
bee dry pollen substitute they have ultra Bee
protein patties that also have some essential oil in them and this year I’m
using both of those and I’m putting the dry pollen substitute out west of the
apiary and I also showed briefly the feeder that I use for that it’s just a
long wooden box closed up to rain and it has a series of inch and a half holes so
the bees can discover it because foraging bees are looking at everything
right now and they’re gonna ignore the pollen substitute the dry stuff
especially while they’re able to find what they need in the environment and
right now as I showed in the beginning of this video they are bringing in
pollen and they’re not getting it from my pollen feeder so the other thing is
inside your hive the thing that is absolutely proven to work again it’s the
ultra bee paddies and when I say it’s proven to work if you’ve heard of Randy
Oliver he does extensive scientific studies about feed supplements and
everything else and he has a great article showing his findings on the
artificial dry pollen substitute and of course he the patties as well and it
shows at different times in the spring during the build-up how much the bees
benefitted from that and as compared to a lot of other products that are on the
market so this was the was the top performer so ultra bee from Mann Lake the
protein paddies with essential oils and then although there’s no evidence that
the essential oil itself had something to do with that essential oils in a mix
like that will keep it from spoiling so it actually keeps it longer so if you
add you know a teaspoon of essential oil to your quart of sugar syrup that you
put in these rapid round feeders and things like that
it will keep that from spoiling so your sugar water lasts longer if you open a
container you can smell it smells a little a little bitter little sour and
that’s your sugar syrup it’s it’s spoiled your bees aren’t even gonna take
that so you need to get rid of it and clean everything out the other thing is
keep all of your feeders cleaned so if it’s been out there for a week
dump what’s left to clean it and restore it with fresh stuff the other thing is
the question was they feed on the landing board this is
an example of a landing board feeder and I use these all the time
but I don’t use them all the time on the landing board of the Beehive because
what else happens in spring a lot of the bees are looking for resources and if
they don’t find what they need and the numbers are up they’ll start to ping on
the weaker colonies of bees and the potential to rob them out exist so when
these are just stuck in the entry board this gets covered and this is sticking
out sure it’s convenient for the beekeeper but other bees that are
scouting around can hit that landing board and discover that syrup and they
can Rob out this colony so it can encourage robbing where if you put a
feeder shim on top of your colony and you put the protein patties on top of
the brood frames then it’s less of a robbing enticement so you want to make
sure I do not recommend using landing board feeders entry feeders and I use
these to open feed and test different mixes whether it’s you know sea salts
water types syrup essential oils we have something coming up by the way when you
see stuff over here this conspicuous product placement I’m not advertising
anything I just put it here because it looks cool but coming up this is
beekeepers choice honey bee feedings stimulant with essential oils I’m going
to taking the top four essential oil mixes and we’re going to find out what
the bees prefer so that’s coming up when the weather warms up as well if we’re
going to put that out and these and they all get labeled with the exact contents
and we use a quart of sugar water and then we add the teaspoon of essential
oils whatever is required by the manufacturer so we’re gonna see what the
bees choose so that’s coming up but so the best thing to feed bees in spring
sugar water and the only supplements that are proven to work well that are
that are the top-performing supplements others may work they just may not work
as well but when it comes to the ultra bee by mann Lake the dry pollen
substitute the bees actually did better on that at some stages of
the year than they did on the pollen they could find a nature so the quality
of the pollen changes through the year as well that’s why it eventually
departed when you look at it I should give a link to the Randy Oliver study
for you but early in the year probably when the pollen quality was not that
good the pollen substitutes outperformed it
and then later when the other pollen resources and nectar kicked in diversity
is the key really but that’s when the pollen they were finding in the
environment actually performed better than what was provided artificially so
those are the only things that recommend sugar syrup
ultra bee and I’ll give links to both of those because I bought those on Amazon
and I think you can also get them from mann Lakes website as well and I bought I
have a 50-pound bag of dry pollen substitute that was a hundred dollars
okay next one I want to ask about this is from I don’t know how to say the name
serif’ Tucker I want to ask about reek weaning hive with a different strain of
queen okay so well I’m guessing you’re ReQueening because the Queen you have you
don’t like there are any number of reasons why people are equi nand that
could be just because there are several years old you know production is dropped
off when you’re inspecting the brood frames it’s very Spartan and they’re
just not doing well the other thing is you if you’re reQueening waiting you have to do
something with your current queen don’t throw your current queen away one of the
reasons to reclaim might be temperament if every time you go by that hive they
zing out and attack you it’s time to get rid of that queen and maybe you’ve got a
new more mild queen coming in so he did not say which type of queen he had
coming in or why he wanted to requeen but you have to get the Queen pheromone
out of that hive for awhile so if you have the Queen active in there it’s time
to get a little eye dropper bottle they sell these in on Amazon also get a glass
bottle put isopropanol in that find the queen put her in the alcohol and crush
that queen up and you just created a queen lure the other thing is if you
have an inbound queen that you’ve purchased you have to get rid of the
existing queen at least three days prior to receiving the replacement it it’s
just my experience that it takes about 72 hours for the bees to start really
noticing that the queen is absent and then it also changes the behavior of
that colony and they will be more receptive to the new queen if you wait
until your new queen has arrived and you know they can come FedEx or overnight
whatever and they come in an envelope with holes punched in it and it’s just
in a little a queen cage like this and she’ll have some workers in there so
that they can feed the Queen and they’ll be candy in it if you wait until that
Queen arrives and then you open the hive and you take that over the Queen out and
you get rid of her or you crush her up and make a pheromone lure for swarms and
then you introduce that new queen right away she’s totally foreign to them her
scent is wrong her pheromone is wrong and the bees will actually you’ll see it
they’ll collect all over her little cage and they’ll be stinging the workers that
are with her and they’ll be you’ll see how they bend over and they they’re just
sticking their abdomens in there they’re trying to sting her to death because she
was born and she doesn’t belong there and they don’t need a queen because the
pheromone is still strong in that colony so you have to have several days or that
Queen is absent so and then put her in and also observe their behavior when you
put that new Queen in there with her workers and you can look sometimes if
they’re desperate enough for a new queen the minute you put that cage in there
I’ve observed this from my observation hive where is take the new queen in
there and they immediately go to her and you can see them sticking their tongues
out and feeding her right away and then lots of workers come up and they start
feeding her so they’re their body posture is completely different they’re
totally relaxed their bodies were laid out straight they’re extending tongues
the behavior is conspicuous that they are accepting and wanting that Queen out
of her cage so you can actually direct release that Queen if they’re feeding
her and there’s a bunch of them and then you know what that Queen does as soon as
she gets out of her cage she goes around and grabs every worker bee that she
encounters and actually rubs her body right on them so it’s just it looks like
she’s hugging all the workers this is really
cool because I’ve seen that again through the observation I’ve I would
never know that behavior happens unless I had a hive that had you know
plexiglass panels that allowed me to observe what happens when a new queen
gets introduced but then she’ll get a little hostile turn from a worker and
she’ll turn away and go away fast so she is spreading herself as quickly as she
can she’ll do that for days before she even starts laying eggs she’s just going
around greeting everybody and getting her pheromone spread all over that
colony so at least three days without a queen then introduced the new queen
don’t try to overlap it don’t do in close context you’ll you’ll very much
improve the acceptance of that queen by that colony so that should be it if you
you know bring in a new strain of Queen that’s how you introduce her and that’s
how you change things out be careful though if you have Africanized bees or
something I would get rid of the genetics complete I would not just requeen I would get rid of the entire colony if they are seriously attacking
people and in large numbers and you know you have a real problem
don’t just introduce a new queen get rid of that whole stock and then when your
new queen comes in pull frames brood frames from other hives you know and put
those in and start your queen with a split and those are things also that
will demonstrate this summer so we have a lot of things coming up this year that
are gonna be interesting for beginning beekeepers so I’m going to show you how
to expand your apiary just through splitting strong colonies and
introducing Queens so that’ll be a lot of fun too so that’s it so let’s say oh
yeah so these are early warnings now because we’re in spring and the weather
is breaking for good and we’re gonna have a lot of nice resources coming into
play here have pre-staged equipment so if you’re thinking that you’re gonna
collect a swarm of bees for example you need to have a deep and a bottom board
and an inner cover and a top cover ready to receive a swarm of bees it happens
all the time that the bees build up all of a sudden beekeepers are frequently
unprepared especially when it’s a new year
like well I had a swarm in April well April is here so by the way kids April
Fool’s Day it is not gonna work if you take your
rubber bands and put them on the vegetable sprayer and expect me to walk
up to the sink and turn on and get sprayed by it I see through it don’t
waste your time NO April fools it doesn’t work you
can’t fool me and payback let’s not even talk about it okay have your supers
ready have your hives ready your full boxes have your frames ready it’s
another thing I’m doing this year pre stage as much as you can and have a
swarm kit so have your bee suit ready and have all your stuff ready to go
don’t be running around the only thing that you’re going to do that’s fresh is
gonna get your sugar water together in your sprayer I didn’t bring it but have
just the sprayer and stuff ready to go and then be ready to mix up your sugar
water because you’re gonna spray your swarm when you collect them the other
thing I’m doing this year is these are the Acorn heavy wax frames so this is a
medium this is a deep and I’m gonna be putting these in the same boxes with
these mann Lake pre-waxed frames so we’re gonna compare these we’re gonna put
these in the beehives I’m gonna put them side-by-side so every other frame will
be Mann Lake acorn mann lake at that man lake has a wider back strip to it and
then these acorn frames do and I bought their best ones I bought a whole case of
them and we’re gonna see what happens but right now it just feels like the
Acorn frames have more wax but the mann Lake is nicely covered I’m gonna see how
that goes so we’re gonna see if the bees even show up reference maybe they’ll pull
them out draw them out all the same but that’s gonna be fun to do I’m gonna
reestablish the observation hive this year and we’re gonna use those frames in
them that’s gonna be a great visual comparison there too so swarm boxes
ready and have your supers ready supers are medium boxes with frames in them
ready to go when those numbers in your deep box when
you’re starting with bees and when those numbers start to build up they will
swarm out if you don’t provide them areas to expand into so have your super
boxes ready to go if you don’t have medium supers or another deep if you’re
going to do two deeps pre-staged pre finish everything get it ready and have
it stored and ready to put on your colony because the build ups can happen
remarkably fast and if you’re not ready they’ll build up all the resources will
jam in there the nectar flow will come on and guess what’s going to happen your
bees are going to swarm and if they swarm out and land on a tree somewhere
that you don’t notice swarms happen fast so if you don’t have the the luxury of
being able to walk out and assess your bee attitudes then you may lose a bunch
of your bees so be prepared to expand those colonies as they go and keep the
feeder shims on keep the feed on top hive top feeders cureacell like this
blue one up here some kind of hive top feeder that’s completely closed that you
can service without exposing the bees be prepared for terrible weather we don’t
lose all their developing bees we want the brood to be sustained so I have
everything ready feeder shims just in case and that’s it the way it works if
you have questions for frequently asked questions for beginning with bees and
you want to put those down in the comment section if it seems like it
would have broad appeal to people please feel free to post your question down
there and we’ll add it to frequently asked questions number eleven which will
come out at the end of the week usually on Friday Saturday at the latest thanks
for watching I hope your bees are doing great and I look forward to reading your
comments and getting questions from you about beginning with bees have a great


  1. Warre hives success secret its theyr shape .And they have only the upper part of the frame so you can take the combs out.As for the best best coating for a beehive ,parrafine dip its by far the best and there are 100 years old beehives in France that were parrafine dipped and they look like new.No mold,no humidity soaking in the wood in winter,nice looking wood that doesnt gets brown.

  2. Hi Frederick – I am also utilizing OAV and had good success with the wand last year. Wondering if you've heard of Johno's Easy Vap? It is a homemade equivalent of a Provap 110 he is selling for $150 vs $500 for the Provap 110. Good video demonstrating below –

  3. The YouTube site is Way Out West Blow-in blog and the video is here. Tim also does a design called the Rose Hive. and this one also

  4. Hello again,
    More great information, the personalized beehive episode should be a good one, can't wait for that, so keep up the great videos and I'll catch you again on the next one 👍

  5. Mr. Dunn, I've been a beekeeper for quite a while now and just wanted to say that I appreciate your open minded no nonsense approach to beekeeping. My granddaughter is starting to take over a lot of my duties and Hope's to go into winter with 12 hives and twenty nucs. You are one of the Beekeepers that I make sure she follows. Good luck to you sir, and keep up the good work.

  6. Fred, another awesome video. Very much looking forward to your OA videos. You should check out sweet valley hives in PA if you are interested in learning about Warre.

  7. Here is the link you had asked about. It’s a bit rudimentary,but the concept is interesting.

  8. In Tennessee, it's illegal to buy or sell or gift used hives that aren't occupied without an inspection by the state inspector or being boiled for 30 minutes in lye.

  9. Loving your videos, my wife and I are new to bee keeping. We get our first nook in two weeks. We are involved with the local club and meetings for the last few months and they are a good resource but I love the quality of video and the information you are giving us. We are excited to get started here in Georgia, we have 4 acres and lots of flowering trees and bushes. Thanks again!

  10. As a plumber I confirm what you sad about the steam  gun , the water expand 16 000 times once in vapour state , get the right safety devices fitted in  by a pro or left it out , called Unvented heating syst , worth checking it out , Thanks

  11. Thank you for another great video. In reference to the oxcilic acid treatment. I am a first year beekeeper waiting on 2 packages to start my adventure. I saw the wisdom in your plan for varroa treatment on new packages. I was wondering if I could wait till the queen is released before treating. From what I understand, even if she has already started laying, as long as it’s not capped, the treatment should be effective. I’m retired and will be around to stay on top of it. Thank you for your time and I really value your opinion on my plan!

  12. Fred, I heard you mention you have the Buckfast bees from R Weaver and they are highly hygienic. In researching the Buckfast bees, I read the biggest con to Buckfast bees is that if you let them naturally requeen, the second generation likely to be aggressive. So you will need to continue to purchase Buckfast queens in order to keep the aggressiveness low. Has this been your experience?

  13. Thanks, Great Information…Again. You mentioned paint and finish on your hives. I put a Varathane (Rust-Oleum) product on my cedar flow hive. "Ultimate Spar Urethane" water based, exterior, crystal clear, satin (green can). I have had great luck with this on parts of my outdoor kitchen so, I thought i'd give it a try on my hive. I don't know about putting it on over other finishes I've only used it on raw wood. Thanks again

  14. Excellent video with lots of good information. I think having things ready for spring is so important. Having extra boxes and frames to make splits as well as extra feed to keep them going. Winter time is perfect for gathering all the necessary things to have a successful season.

  15. Mr. Dunn, I see a ceracell feeder behind you. What is you option about it? Would you use it? Would you also use it in the winter with sugar?

  16. You've had the question come up a few times about wintering honeybees indoors. A Canadian Beekeeper is a commercial beekeeper in Manitoba that successfully does that very thing: 1200 – 1400 hives kept in a climate-controlled shed from early November to late March. Probably the key to his success with this is that he does not interfere with the natural winter / torpor cycle of the bees. The shed is kept in complete and uninterrupted darkness at a consistent temperature of 39 degrees F. He has a full series of videos on the topic; here's a link to his intro on it:

  17. Gr8 video, Fred… nice to see some element from industrial hygiene using prepared “kits” in anticipation of things to come. Boy Scout mentality…” Be Prepared”

  18. Question- Do you have recommendations for dealing with the weight of the flow hive super? With a regular 10 frame, you can pull frames to make the box lighter but it seems as though the flow frames would be a bit more difficult to do that with if you're doing an inspection.

  19. Thanks again for another brilliant FAQ to add to the series, Fred.

    Regarding Warre hives. I plan on using 8-frame medium langstroth boxes but with a Warre style mgmt philosophy. I will be using foundationless frames. I will make a quilt box with builtin feeder based loosely off your feeder shim you shared (thank you). I will make a Warre style roof to allow for some climate control within the hive. My goal is to keep the comb refreshed. The philosophy Warre had on beekeeping through simulating nature makes a lot of sense to me.

    Quite a few people seem to be doing pretty much as I have outlined above.

    Keep in mind, I am brand new to bees, but this will be how I am starting out come the spring of 2019 in New Zealand.

  20. Great video Fred! I was curious about the survivor bees you had mentioned in the last video or so. I think you said they were from Sweden or something. Sasquatch bees?

  21. Hi Mr. Dunn, what method do you think is the best for continue genetics in a hive that you absolutely love. I just inspected my favorite hive yesterday. They are always nice bees and very hard working. I finally found the queen, never seen her before because if was a swarm from a hive last spring. The queen I found was absolutely massive. 2 or 3 times the size of a worker and she has filled up the box with larva and capped brood. I really want to continue her genetics. What is the best way to do that? Is by pulling out and making a split? Or taking a frame of eggs and letting them raise another queen in the split? I’m trying to find the right balance, want to make sure I am making a smart decision, so I can have strong and productive hives. If you have any suggestions, it would be very much appreciated. Thanks again for making these helpful videos

  22. In your next video, would you mind discussing strapping down hives? Why do it, when is it appropriate, and recommend good products you know of? Thank you!

  23. 32:20 . Have a swarming kit ready be prepared……… spray bottle I didn’t bring it, AT THIS POINT ID LOST IT SPILT MY CUP OF TEA LAUGHING brilliant.

  24. That steam trick is pretty cool.. simple to build. Yes, he has steam pressure for sure. That would work.. disassemble at the end and let them all air out. Yes, that could be VERY dangerous! rofl! kids on the sprayer! lol "Sorry kids, April un-fools" 🙂 Thanks again Fred! I'm caught up! Now I'll be jonesin' all week for the next! 🙂

  25. I couldn’t stop binge listening to your series that I forgot where you mention the Texas Weaver strain of bees. It would be great if you could address the topic of queen longevity. How long do your Weaver bees live. You mention buying Weaver queen bees by why are you having to buy queens at all if you have 10 hives or so, to get larvae from? Do you lose the old Weaver queens to swarming? And, Texas bees have Africanized genetics so must the Weaver bees? Do you notice a difference in temperament? Thanks.

  26. Just catching up today. Another great FAQ and some great links below! (Especially the Wax melter* and the shim! Thanks for teaching us!
    [He does put in a pressure release valve (of sorts), he shows at minute 3:03 with a notice that you need to put one in if you use this method.]

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