Hoop House Construction, Part 2 of 3: Construction Materials and End Wall Options

Okay, let’s look at some hoop materials Steel As far as gauge … 14 gauge is probably the thinnest you ought
to look at on a large structure The lower the number, the thicker the pipe
wall, guys So, you know, 12 would be a thicker than that
14 gauge Um, we usually space these four feet apart But, you know Remember, strength of the steel is a combination
diameter and wall thickness That you’re paying for weight when you buy
steel You can use top rail tubing on smaller houses This is just a little 12-foot house That’s the chain link fence top rail 16-, 17-gauge Very thin and you do not want to use it on
a big house It doesn’t have that much strength There are quick hoop benders that are available
through Johnny’s That you can bend your own pipe We did successfully with this Pretty neat if you like to do your own Todd Hanley has a bender — This is the first model, not a later one — That you can use to bend the square tubing Those plans, I guess, Alan, they’re still
on your website? At the Kerr Center, they have plans on making
the Hanley house or bending your pipe with his bender Square tubing — very strong I mean the steel is strong I really like the looks of it And the nice thing about square tubing — you
can attach things to it very easily I mean, it’s flat You can put a piece of wiggle wire base on
it Okay, PVC This gentleman’s got it right It’s not very strong, But if you put some type of bracing in it
to hold it together That’s what you need to do He’s had experience Our poly pipe house is only fourteen feet
wide I wouldn’t want to go any wider with it But as long as it’s arched And you’ve got the plastic applied on it firmly
and tied down It’s very strong I’ve never had a problem with this blowing
down Okay, end wall Gosh, you know you get what you pay for This is steel I love steel This is really overkill But, I like it when it doesn’t rot, okay? And now the issue with steel: You’ve got to have a cutting torch And you’ve got to have a chop saw You have to have a welder You’ve got to have a drill
You’ve got to have a few more tools. Correct? Than you would if you use using wood, timber,
lumber Alright, this is a laminated, treated wood If you’re certified organic, this is not permissible You need to figure out some other way Use some oil on it or something — Linseed oil or something to treat it But, laminated gives you a lot a string It’s very — this is one of our first walls
we put up Well, actually the third wall on the third
house But, very functional It’s still in use today or still out there The house is not used much but the structure,
there, is This a C-purlin Possible there … Anytime you cut one of these C-purlins, you
weaken it You know, but this is an option This is certainly an option and when they’re
curved like that It’s going to be stronger than just a piece
of plate steel Okay, when you install your post, you’ve got
to have some structural members — Some posts on your end wall if it’s a permanent
house, okay? If you want strength If you don’t, the darn thing is going to blow
down So, this is Steve He’s using the old, you know, packing rod
there To compact the clay soil Okay, concrete is really the ideal thing to
use Some people just dry pack it If you’re really a purist, you’ll want to
want to mix it and then pour it But, hey When you do this … Well, you just want to make sure that you’ve
got enough moisture in that it will set up properly Okay, use the door You get what you pay for again with the door We use a commercial door or we build the … We take the ones that we can purchase off
the shelf and we will strengthen them Different types of doors: This is the sliding (door) If they’re mounted on the top, it’s much better Obviously, there’s not any soil that’s going
to get up there At the bottom and that track, wow You know, it will fill up with soil, so you
have to clean it out But I like these. They are a little more expensive
to put up But they’re pretty convenient to open and
close This is the simplest door you can make It’s a scissor door A chain or a bolt run through the two door
components to the end hoop You just open it — I mean it’s like a scissor,
okay? Very cheap not very strong But for small structures it’s very good I’ve seen them on larger structures It scares me to death because there’s just
not any structural strength there For that on a large house The curtain door The structure is strong The doors just cheap You get, again, what you pay for It operates just like the vents on the side
of the house Roll it up, roll it down When I was in Israel I noticed that some Israeli growers were tacking
the side of the film to the column And they were using these little clips and
then running a nail through it And then just pulling it on and off by hand It’s kind of a little time consuming but it’s
cheap It’s a way to make it happen Just understand the limitations of the system Okay, hinged doors, wow This is great if you want something that you
don’t have to lift Or to personally remove and put back and bolt
back on You just open it up and close it, right? It’s super, but, my goodness, I think Leon
will attest to this So it’s difficult to make, difficult to hang And it’s expensive, right, Leon? Okay, Penn State University has this type
of door It hinges to the top Problem with that — if it did catch some
wind And you were standing close by you can imagine
what would happen But it does have unhindered access to that Alright, so we’re looking at these detachable
end walls For a removable structure or if we want to
drive through a permanent structure This is our little portable end wall It sits on a piece of angle iron to keep it
from blowing in at the base It hooks to two bolts at the top It’s pretty slick for the, you know, if you
want to make your own If you just want to use some wood Okay, attaching your frame to the ground Various ways to do this This is brother Leon, here He’s using a chain And that chain has got a little bit of a … It’s got a hook or a little What do you call it? A yoke on the bottom of it That will bite into the concrete and won’t
pull it out And we’re not going to pour that concrete
all the way to the top We’re going to leave six inches or eight inches
under the ground So when we run a disc over that area We’re not going to tear up our brace or tear
up our anchor We can just bury the chain in the soil — dig
the soil out Pull the chain up and attach it to our frame If we need to, you know, need to get it out
of the way and hide it You can see there how it’s attached to the
frame just with a bolt and a washer and nut Okay, this is another example how they fit
right up into the frame — the end walls You got little post there and then you attach
them to the top with some hardware Not a bad deal Okay, max venting When you design, if you want to custom design
it Think about getting as much ventilation through
there And, again, if it this is for permanent house
with a permanent end wall It’s kind of open enough you can get a small
utility vehicle in there Different materials for the end walls: Sheeting — this is PVC or polycarbonate Expensive, but isn’t that nice? Low maintenance And you couldn’t afford to put it over your
whole house Well, I guess you could if you’ve got deep
pockets But, I like this because the end walls take
a lot of abuse, kind of like the door For removable end walls and doors, I like
the ripstop plastic This stuff, it’s hard to run your hand through
it I mean, you’ve really got to whack it to get
it to tear And it will last a year or so longer than
this, the regular clear poly greenhouse I do not like to … removal end walls I’d prefer not to use regular six mil plastic
on it Just, when you lay them down on the ground,
it just rips too easily It would be better if you had something like
this If you can spend a few more dollars to do that Cover at least your doors with this — removable


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *