How to Bud Fruit Trees

Hi I’m Tricia an organic gardener I grow
organically for a healthy and safe food supply for a
clean and sustainable environment for an enjoyable and rewarding
experience Budding and grafting are the easiest
ways to get more fruit of a variety that you like or to change the variety of a fruit tree
or to make your own multi graft Today I’ll show you the easiest method
for beginners – budding Budding means you take just a bud from
the cultivar you want and attach it to the rootstock or under
stock Today I’ll be demonstrating T budding which is the easiest Budding works on
trees younger than 5 with branches smaller than one-half inch and it’s the main method used for stone
fruits Be sure to check the patent on any
variety you want to bud or graft a fruit tree patent last 20 years from
filing in the US fruit breeders can spend as long as 15 or
even 30 years to develop a variety and respecting their patents ensures
that they’ll be able to continue to breed and develop delicious new varieties
Budding has to be done at the right time of year between mid July and September is best
that’s when the bark slips easily Soil moisture has a lot to do
with the bark slipping if your bark doesn’t that means you
probably don’t have enough cambial activity To encourage activity in the cambium
layer water the tree If your budding onto a young
rootstock it should be between a quarter and a
half inch in diameter and the bud should be set about six to
12 inches above the soil For top working meaning
you’re gonna change the variety or add a variety the budding should happen between 12 and
18 inches from the trunk of the under stock remove leaves and
branches from the bud area so that you have a clean smooth working
surface Once you have your budding sites selected cut some bud sticks from your desired
cultivar this should be done in the morning when
the turgor pressure of the tree is at its highest You want to cut nice healthy shoots with
plump buds from the current season’s growth the middle buds are the best so you cut
off and discard the top buds and the bottom buds cut off the leaves
but leave about half an inch of the petiole to use as a handle when
budding it’s best to use the bud sticks right
away if your doing quite a bit a budding put the bud sticks that are waiting be
used in the labeled plastic bag in the shade If you can’t bud the same day you cut
the bud sticks or if the bud sticks are coming from a different location they can be stored for up to five days
in a plastic bag in the refrigerator just remember the longer they’re stored
the less chance of success To remove the bud and to prepare your
root stock or under stock for budding you’ll need a very sharp knife like this
Felco Victorinox prepare the rootstock or under stock
first by making a one and a half inch vertical
cut through just the bark be careful not to
cut the wood beneath cut across the bottom of your vertical
slit with the blade angled up I’m using an inverted T bud inverted T
bud tends to be more successful because of
the natural downward flow of hormones a right-side up t works too I’m going to
remove the bud of my new cultivar Start your cut half to three-quarters of
an inch below the bud and end it half to three-quarters of an
inch above the bud it’s critical that the back of the bud
shield be straight or else it won’t take The bud shield
needs to be inserted immediately into the T before it dries out slide the shield under the bark until
it’s roughly in the center of the vertical cut make sure that you insert it right
side up buds put in upside down rarely take Using grafting tape like
this budding tape wrap the tape around the bud make sure
the pressure of the tape doesn’t pop the bud shield out make sure you don’t cover up the bud leave it peeking out between the wrapping check back a week to ten days later to
see if it’s taken if the shield looks plump and the petioles
have fallen off that’s good if it’s all dried and
shriveled up better luck next time The bud won’t
sprout this year next spring right before bud break cut
off the wood a half an inch above your successful budding and be alert
to pinch of all other shoots in the area except your
new bud marking it with some paint can help Make
your own multi graph tree and grow organic for life!


  1. I'm sure this can be explained in a very complicated way. But you did it very well. Thank you. This was very interesting. ^_^

  2. Hi I'm a young teen with a raised bed it is 11 feet by 4 feet and I was wondering if you could give me some advise on what to grow (live in northern Washington)

  3. Washington is a great state for apples and cherries. You could also grow walnuts, pears, peaches, and nectarines. Depending on how late your last frost is you could also grow apricots and apriums.

  4. Hi Madam,

    Good To See You, I have a Question,

    If i going to make Patch Budding to Seedling Plants,The Patch Bud Wood how many days to Keep then to Make Patch Budding

    For Eg) :> Patch Bud-wood tree some other Place , Seedling Plants Some Other Place. So If i need to Collect Bud wood May be Some Hour or Days So How it Possible to Make It,

  5. I'm trying to understand how bud grafting anatomy actually works, but no book or website explains this: If not only the bark but also the cambium is lifted out, the cambium would end up on the outside of the bark of the bud that is inserted. How are they supposed to match up and grow if the open side of the bud cutting is only touching the internal wood of the stock? Wouldn't you need to instead shave off the tree's very thin bark where the bud will go, peel off the sliver of wood on the bud cutting, and bind the bud to the exposed cambium?

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