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hey guys this is retired at 40 here today
I’m gonna build a hoop house to extend our growing season a little bit it’s
cooling off here in the Rockies and we’re gonna try and do it for just under
two hundred dollars and if you check the description below you can see a list of
materials you’ll need you can come along for the ride today we are making a 10 by
10 hoop house or high tunnel on a budget trying to keep it around $200 it’s a
beautiful day in Colorado but I know better
it’ll be fall before we know it and we want to extend our growing
season and our goal is to fit two of these guys which are three by eight
raised beds inside of this 10 by 10 hoop house and then we’ll actually put
another small hoop house tunnel on top of it with a hinge and I’ll show you how to do
that in a different video but if you check the description below we’ll
actually have all of the pricing of what I spent on this hoop house and then all
of your dimensions and what you’ll need to build it alright the first thing you
need is four two by six by ten pieces of lumber two of them will need to be cut
to 120 inches or 10 feet most of the time when you buy them at a lumber store
they’re a little bit longer than 10 feet so cut them down to ten feet I’m doing
my whole hoop house in ten by ten so you can adjust your measurements as
needed and to to cut it to 120 inches and then to cut at 117 inches and that
way when you put them together this side will be ten feet the next thing you’ll
need is a box of galvanized or deck screws inch and a quarter and that’ll be
to hold these little grommets that will hold your hoops this way and then you
will need 22 of these guys and those will just kind of stabilize your hoops
and I went every two feet with mine and then do the same on the other side
my hoop house is not perfectly level because I do want it to drain and I will
actually fill in part of the inside just for protection from the cold and wind
and whatnot when it does start cooling off more. next thing you will need is
these 10-foot sections of three-quarter inch PVC and then you will put them
together with PVC cement or all-purpose in it just like that so you have a
20-foot section and the 20-foot section allows it to be long enough that you can
stand up in the actual hoop which is one of my main requirements when I was
building it and you will need 12 pieces of the 10-foot PVC and when you buy the
PVC make sure you get the right type. there’s two different kinds this is schedule forty
but there is a difference between sections of walls see if I can get a
close-up here this one is the thicker one it’s only about 10 or 20 cents more
per stick but it’ll be a lot more rigid when it’s done and that should be
everything we need for this first part alright once you got everything screwed
or nailed together on the frame then set all of your conduit grommets at two feet
apart and then once you get those set in there
and you can actually put your hoop pieces in and then just take a drill go
right through the center like that throw a screw in there
just keep it in place all right next we’re gonna do the supports and then
followed by the door after that so for the support you need some 2 by 4 by 10 I
use treated lumber because this is gonna be outside
for a lot of time and it’s not actually touching the soil so it’ll withstand the
test of time a lot better so mark them at 10 feet like I said earlier they tend
to not be 10 feet they’re usually a little longer you can see where I marked
10 feet on those and then we’re actually gonna be cutting these in half so I mark
them at inch and 3/4 which would be half of the three and a half inches that they
are wide and then I use a skill saw which is not for everyone to cut them in
half you can use a table saw as well and then once you get those ripped in half
I’m gonna take another piece of 3/4 inch PVC and I like to mark we’re gonna cut
them to two inches I like to actually mark them on the table and then you kind
of an idea of where you can do the next one
and then once we have our two inch pieces I’m gonna cut this little section
out here and then I went ahead and I marked out my increments every two feet just like you did with the bottom part
of the frame or the actual hoops are sitting and then we also have 24 of
these little slip joints that we’re actually going to make some more of
later because they come in real handy just being able to slip over the the
other pieces of PVC on the hoop so what we need to do take a drill here grab the
screw and do that every two feet on every
single one of these pieces and I’ll catch you in a second all right once you
got these all screwed into here you should have four of those I’ve actually
already put one on here great thing about the slip joints is they gonna be
adjusted once they’re in place so you can push them up push them down if you
want to hang certain things on there or adjusting next we’re gonna do the door
and I’m actually gonna put mine the width of the door on the top here and
you’ll see why once we get everything squared away all right making the door
in the frame so you might need to adjust your door height or width depending on
your preference I want mine to be 36 inches wide and because my hoop house is
might be a little bit different size than yours will be I’m gonna make my
door 74 inches tall so this piece here and this piece here are 74 inches and
then this piece here and on the top and this one in the middle
they are 33 inches and then just to make it look a little nicer and give it a
little bit more rigidity these little cross supports here are eight inches
from long too long and I think it makes it look a little nicer and I think
that it’ll help not to warp in the future since it’s going to be outside
and then on the frame I built the frame a half an inch bigger on each side and
that will just account for just a little bit of fluff room I guess
if it does warp or hangs funny or it needs adjustment in the future
so the outside pieces here are 78 inches top or sorry top bottom those are 37 so when you fit it inside got a little
playroom for it to fit in and I’m actually making two doors one on each
side of the hoophouse front and back so I’m gonna be doing this twice if you
just want one door obviously just do it once got the door frame sitting in there
so go ahead and mark your 10-foot piece here mark that make the center of that
which would be five feet and then mark the center of your door frame which in
this case is 18 and a half from inside-to-inside mark the center of that
line those up and then do the same on the top mark the center it should be
relatively close to the center of the hoop there and then you have those lined
up square them up drill a hole put in a
screw just to tack it there then we’re gonna try and square up the top as well and then you’ll connect your cross
supports with the top of the door here all right got the frame in got the top
attached and you have to move your cross supports accordingly so they’re evenly
spaced up there and then just attach them to the top of that doorframe so
next we want to attach these side supports so I cut two more pieces in my
case it was 33 inches on each side here two here two here so I’m gonna put those
in and then we’re gonna work on putting the door in all right look at that cross
supports are in door frames in everything’s looking sturdy it’s time to
put some hinges on the door and get this puppy hung well looks like everything’s
coming along real nice come and join us on part two and we’ll get the doors in
place and put the finishing touches on this thing


  1. Please use caution when using a miter saw on small cuts. You can always make a jig for a table saw or similar and not have to work close to the blade.

  2. I retired 1 month before my 41st birthday (now 57). Have built many a hoophouse since then. A few points: 1) The white PVC will get brittle from UV in a year or so. You will get a few more years if the plastic blocks UV. What will happen is a strong side wind will distort the shape a little causing the pipe to snap and poke a hole through the plastic. Grey electrical PVC is UV protected and lasts much longer in a hoophouse. 2) strong winds will lift that thing like a kite. Many designs extend the pvc beyond the side boards anchored into the ground. You can also use a few screw anchors into the ground attached by cable to the side boards. Good luck and enjoy the hoophouse.

  3. I need to do something like this and appreciate your video. I'll be REALLY interested in how it holds up over the winter. I'm worried about high winds primarily. Please update us in spring.

  4. A few observations:
    >Grey electrical PVC conduit will hold up longer than the white PVC water pipe.
    >Your work holding methods for cutting small pieces of PVC is an accident waiting to happen. Please take a few extra minutes and make a proper jig or fixture for cutting small parts, or use a hand saw.

  5. When framing the door frame, there is no need for the bottom rail. Instead find the center and toenail the verticals in place, This will allow for an even taller (1.75"?) door with less limber, Of course, you can cut a spacer 36.5" wide (marked at its center, held with a single screw to the base)) to help you place the verticals, then remove the spacer once the door frame is set in place and screwed down (toenail the screws).

  6. The good plastic from amazon for 45bucs..12×25

  7. Great Video,…… maybe not for all perfect, but full of ideas for their own projects. i couldn#t beleave why people made the fat fingers down ?????……Hey Guys,…..! so many details in here !

  8. I love this video the most thanks brother this is going to save me a lot of money with food and building when i move to my raw land up in Maine

  9. FYI, It would be better (I think) to put the PVC bows on the inside of the structure (much more support/stronger). Also, would it be better to use metal brackets to hold the PVC, or would those rust? It seems like in time/cold climates, that the plastic ones might crack?

  10. Hey guys, if you try this out, you can also use electrical PVC conduit (the grey stuff). It is more sun tolerant than the white is and should give you a longer lifespan. Also, make sure this is secured to the ground well. It can tolerate wind and sheds it off pretty well being rounded.

  11. To prevent a wind storm from blowing it away I would stick a piece of rebar inside at the end of those pvc to the ground inside at least 5 inches so that if a strong storm comes along it won’t be blown away. I would stick it at each corner and mid section. I like your idea of your hoop house.

  12. A wonderful video. I will build this using your video. How much plastic will I need. What length and width?

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